The ULTIMATE Tartan trews? Rob Stewart look this way!

Following on from my review of the Anderson blouse I thought I’d do a summary review of Sewoverit’s ultimate trousers.

I don’t make many pairs of trousers – I’m not yet very confident with fitting issues. Somehow trousers don’t seem so obvious what to do – I find it still a bit of a magical process how these 4 bits of fabric come together and magically fit over my arse.

Anyway if I do make trousers I generally make Ultimate Trousers because the fit is so good. Here are my general thoughts and alterations I do when making up these bad boys:

  • they have no pockets but you could easily add them. I haven’t because I like the clean lines of them. If I was to add pockets I’d probably only do welt back pockets to preserve the clean lines down the hips (my widest area).
  • there is no waistband so no belt loops so you have to make sure the fit is spot on. I’ve added belt loops to some of my pairs but only enough for a skinny belt.
  • I’ve found the size to be pretty true.  Obviously if you use fabric with a bit of stretch you need to size down a bit. Generally though whatever size it says on the packet is the size I am.
  • The length is ankle grazer or 7/8 length. I’m 5’5″ and find this too short to wear with boots so add an inch or 2. They’re a great length with flats in summer  though in winter they’re  tad too short you wear socks.
  • the facing always feels about 1cm too short but somehow it ends up fitting. When I’ve lengthened the facing I’ve generally ended up with my trousers round my ankles as I walk!
  • I generally bind the bottom of the facing because if your fabric has any ease on it I find they won’t hold up as well without the binding. Also it looks pretty.

  • On previous patterns I tinkered with them and made them into nice palazzo pants in East African kanga fabric which is great for fieldwork. Wish I’d kept the alteration pattern cos they’re lovely.
  • On this pair I decided to tinker around with the crotch fitting a little. I’ve been finding I’ve got excess fabric around my crotch which isn’t too sexy. Using the Colette tutorial I made a shallower curve on the crotch to adjust for my short torso. I also put a teensy bit more ease at the top of the thigh. After years of swimming and skiing (and biscuits) these are my biggest fitting challenge when it comes to trousers. The result is practically perfect if I don’t say so myself.

And that’s really it. This pattern needs little or no alteration for me. I’m tempted to buy other trouser patterns from Sewoverit for that reason. Though I’m also loathe to spend money on another pattern when this one is so perfect that I could tinker around with it.

Here are just some of my Ultimate Trousers:

And finally my new tartan trews!

Look I’ve actually managed to take some photos outside! I reckon it’s been at least 3 months since I took any photos outside as it’s been dark and freezing. Maybe this means spring is on its way??

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8 thoughts on “The ULTIMATE Tartan trews? Rob Stewart look this way!

  1. What great trousers. I love the tartan pair and those green ones are fab. Are those the Kanga fabric? I have seen lots of iterations of this patterns in the Blogosphere and it looks really pretty versatile. Trousers are still a bit of a mystery to me fitting wise so I am totally impressed. Oh BTW I was in Edinburgh Fabrics the other day and they had a small selection of wax cloth. Xx

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    1. Yes the green ones are my kangas- I may have to make another pair this year as I slightly killed these ones. And yes I’ve seen the wax in Edinburgh fabrics – they have a nice selection though I’m trying to behave and stop buying so much (ha bloody ha)

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  2. Nice work! Fitting trousers is very tricky – so many fit points unlike just about anything else we make. Pants for Real People is a wonder book if you ever feel like you want a good fitting resource. I’m completely evangelical in my recommendations of it!

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  3. It’s so great to see this pattern on someone who isn’t Lisa Comfort’s size or smaller, it makes me think, hey I could make this work! I love love love your Kanga ones, so airy and cool and funky. What kind of fabric has worked best for you Lesley?

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    1. I’ve found it easier using fabrics with a bit of give – I had a nightmare with plain cotton ones since they’re meant to be snug around the waist but when I sat down they cut me in 2. The tartan ones I’ve just done had quite a lot of ease which was great.

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